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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.